Feeling a twinge of homesickness following
our visit to Gallipoli, (In our group of about 15 Australians we shared a lunch
table with an older couple who happened to be from Coffs Harbour and their son
is living in Bundagen. Such a small
world!) we moved on to the small town of Ayvalik on the Gulf of Edremit as a
stepping stone into Greece.
The area is a wonderful blend of Greece and
Turkey. The town was a majority Greek
town predominated by olive oil manufacturing.
In the 1920’s when the population transfer happened during the Turkish War of Independence, the town was essentially emptied and too few of the
remaining Turks knew how to continue the olive oil production. Ultimately the Turkish government had to
bring back several thousand Greeks to stem the decline of industry.
We stayed at a simple pansyion in Ayvalik with the
most fantastic views of the harbour and the most spectacular sunsets over the
hills surrounding the bay. Each evening was
a brilliant show.
We took a ferry across the bay to the Cunda Island which
was a delight – narrow cobblestoned streets, lovely waterfront cafes and
windmills straight out of Don Quixote
dotting the hillsides.
We stumbled upon the Taksiarches or
Metropolitan Church, a former Greek Orthodox Church turned Mosque then left for
ruin following damage by an earthquake in 1944.
The building was restored in the late 1990’s and turned into the most eclectic
and amazing museum. The beautifully
restored church with frescos of saints on the walls exhibited steam engines,
model cars and ships, old medical equipment, diving suits, old tape recorders,
toy trains, tin cars, real cars and motorcycles and dolls from all over the
world, just to name a few of the fantastic items on display.
Restored church cum museum |
So our last full day in Turkey was lovely
and we were feeling a bit melancholy about leaving but thinking we may be back
to sail these waters.....
But before saying goodbye to Turkey we must
say a few words about Turkish buses.
They are fantastic. Murray’s take
note! We took several long distance bus
trips (Tatvan to Ankara, Marmaris to Istanbul, Çanakkale to Ayvalik) and they
were all a real treat. All the buses are
modern Mercedes buses with comfortable seats and video monitors on the back
offering movies, music, GPS, TV shows and a usb port to charge your phone or
listen to your own music. Every bus has
a driver, or two depending on the length of the journey, and a steward. As the bus pulls out of the terminal the
steward gives everyone an ice cream to start their journey. Then every few hours the steward loads up a
little wheeled chart and offers drinks (hot and cold) and snacks. The bus stops every 2 ½ to 3 hours at the
most amazing bus stops. They are more
like an airport terminal than a bus stop.
They are huge and immaculately clean with pretty landscaping
outside. Inside are shops and nice
restaurants with really good food – no chicko rolls here!
There were so many good things about Turkey;
the people, the scenery, their complex and ancient history, their breakfasts. We will miss it.
Bye for now, Turkey |
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