Panormitis and Pedi

The quiet, pretty anchorage of Panormitis was quite different from when we were here in May.  In May there were only bout 5 boats in the anchorage, the one Taverna was not yet opened and there were only a handful of people ashore.  When the ferries came they dislodged about 50 people to mull around the monastery, buy a few icons then it was back to dead quiet an hour later when the ferry left.  Now towards the end of the season there are 20+ boats in the anchorage, the Taverna is doing a roaring trade, the spartan holiday flats are filled with elderly Greeks and the ferries coming three times a day contain hundreds of tourists.  Despite the increase in holiday makers, the area retains its quiet charm.

A panorama of Panormitis

We spent a very relaxing four days in Panormitis; reading, swimming, taking walks and generally enjoying the rhythm of the ferries, the monks’ chanting and bell ringing.  We had spectacular sunsets and moon rises to entertain us.

Sunset

Moon rise over the monastery

But eventually it was time to move on and say goodbye to this peaceful place.

Leaving the harbour

We moved up the east coast of Symi island to another anchorage, Pedi, near the main town of Symi.  There was no wind for our sail but a big blow was predicted the next day so we wanted to get snug in our next anchorage before the meltemi hit.  We motored up the coast and took advantage of the short passage to duck into the little bays on the way.  Some of these bays were spectacular and would make great stops for a spot of lunch but would not be very good for longer stays.

 

Specie cliffs and nice beach

We had heard a lot about Pedi from other sailors.  This is a convenient harbour to come across from Turkey to Greece for a Booze and Bacon run (essential items that are expensive or hard to find in Turkey).  The anchorage was a bit crowded and the town bigger and noisier than expected, but still charming and pleasant.

Pedi waterfront

We spent a few days here, provisioning, doing some odd and ends maintenance, swimming and snorkling.  One day we took a walk along the bay to a lovely little beach.  

St Nicholas Beach

A large motor yacht called 2 Ladies was anchored off the beach.  We noticed three crew members came ashore from the yacht in a big dinghy with tables, chairs and various bags of china and food.  They proceeded to set up an alfresco dining area under the shade of some shady trees.  The table was complete with tablecloth, champagne flutes and all the trimmings.  Then the three couples from the yacht, who were sunning themselves on the deck chairs along the beach, came and had a gourmet meal with the crew fawning over them.  We looked up the yacht on the internet and it can be chartered for a mere €210,000 per week!   A very different world for some people!

The 2 Ladies

Crew setting the table - note the white gloves

Initially we were going to spend a few days in Pedi then check out of Greece and head back to Turkey.  However when we went to get our e-visas for Turkey we realised that the timing was not good for us.  We tend to be fairly loose with our plans in this nomadic life we are living but sometimes juggling the ‘90 days in 180 days’ visas means a bit of long term (ie 6 months ahead) planning is necessary.  We realised it was a bit too early to return to Turkey as we would then have to leave mid-March 2017, which is early in the season and we would use up our 90 days in country before we were ready to leave.  So we had a few more weeks in Greece.  Where to go next.......?

Next stop?