Making Our Way Back to Marmaris

On our way out of Hisarönü Gulf we explored some of the anchorages and bays on the northern side of the Gulf.  We checked out the narrow bay of Bençik.  It was very pretty with pine covered hills, crystal clear water and a wilderness feel to the place.  Being a narrow bay the only draw back was that we would have to anchor stern-to and take a line to shore – not our preferred method of anchoring.  

Bençik

It was still early afternoon so we decided to go on to another anchorage about 7 nm further west.  Halfway there the wind and seas started to pick up and we bashed our way into the calm waters of Kuruca Bay.  It was a beautiful anchorage which we shared with only a few other boats.  We dropped the pick and settled in to watch the sun set behind the hills.

Kuruca Bay

 

We started out early the next morning and crossed the Gulf to check out Dirsek, a bay on the southern side of the Gulf.  We had hoped we would have a nice beam run across with the prevailing westerlies but the winds were light and flukey so we ended up motoring.  The anchorage was full of day trippers enjoying the clear water.  We dropped anchor, had a wonderful swim and some lunch then moved on.  I would have loved to stay longer in Dirsek.  The water was so clear we could easily see the bottom in 12m.

Idyllic Dirsek

In the two hours we had stopped in Dirsek the winds had picked up.  When we got out of the sheltered bay we were hit with 20 knot winds and heavy seas.  We bashed through around the point but then once around the 120^o bearing towards Bozburun made for a very pleasaant beam reach using the genoa only.  We managed to sail all the way up the bay into Bozburun. 

 

 Once again Bozburun had lots of people we knew, although Bathsheba had moved on.  We desparately needed to get some laundry done and headed ashore.  We ended up having dinner at Osman’s where all the yachties go.  A big wedding was being held in town.  Women were dressed to the nines; there were fireworks and the whole village joined in with the festivities.

Bozburun wedding

Bozburun

Leaving Bozburun bay

We stayed just two nights in Bozburun then left mid-morning for a slow but pleasant sail to Bozuk Kale (or Bozuk Bükü), only a few kilometers from Bozburun as the crow flies but 14nm by sea.  We had been in Bozuk Kale in May and it was nice to return.  We spent two nights here with a handful of other yachts.  We returned to the castle to have another walk around the walls and to admire the beautiful views.

Two gulets under sail - a rare sight

Castle walls of Loryma (Bozuk Kale) still standing after more than 2000 years

Views from the castle walls

Our anchorage

 

We were up relatively early to start our last passage of the season back to Marmaris.  We put up the main sail while at anchor and were very pleased that we were able to sail off the anchor.  The winds were flukey going up the peninsula.  One minute we had great 10 knot winds and moving along at a nice clip then there was dead calm and we would slow down to a crawl.  Just when we thought we would have to resort to the iron spinnaker, the wind would come back for a few minutes.  Finally just outside Çiftlik harbour the winds totally died and we had to enter Marmaris Bay under motor.  Still Songster seemed very happy to be back to her home base (as were her crew).

Approaching Marmaris Bay