Ah Mandalay; the ancient royal capital on the exotic Irrawaddy,
the land of Kipling, Orwell and George MacDonald Fraser. Well perhaps, but today it seems mainly to be
a big, bustling, chaotic Asian city.
On our first day in Mandalay we walked the city, first past
the palace walls. We didn’t bother to go
inside the complex as not much is left as the inside was destroyed by fire in
WWII. The palace was occupied by only
two kings before the British took over Burma in the late 1800’s.
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The palace walls and moat |
We continued on towards Mandalay Hill and the home of many of
Mandalay’s religious sites.
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View of Mandalay Hill from the palace moat |
We walked up
the thousands of steps to the top. When
Bob was here in 1987 the place was packed with devotees. Now the steps were nearly deserted and lined
with shanty huts, basic stalls of food and souvenirs and it seemed to be home
to a squatter community. When we reached
the top we discovered that the modern day visitor takes a taxi or bus to the
car park near the top and then an escalator for the last few hundred feet.
Nevertheless the views from the top were magnificent.
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Escalators for the modern day devotee |
At the bottom of Mandalay hill is the Kuthodaw Pagoda, built
by King Mindon in 1857,it
is surrounded
by 729 stupas containing upright stone slabs on which are inscribed the teachings of Buddha. It
is known as "
World's largest book".
The next day we hired a motor scooter to go to Taung Tha Man
Lake to see the U-Bein Bridge, a beautiful 1.2 kilometre structure built from
teak pilings and planks. It is said to
be the longest bridge of its type in
the world. Tourist and locals flock to
it to watch the sunset. We took a wrong
turn or two getting to the bridge which is about 11 km south of the city and
happened upon a textile village. The
sides of the lake were filled with skeins of brightly coloured threads hanging
to dry, others were twisting the skein to pack up for market and still others
were stacking the skeins on the back of motorcycles for delivery. Small huts housed looms weaving beautifully
patterned cloth. It was a terrific
find. I am very glad we took that wrong
but oh so right turn.
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Skeins hanging to dry |
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Loading up for delivery |
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Weaving the cloth |
The setting of
U-Bein Bridge was very pretty. People
came for their wedding photos and fashion shoots as well as general
tourist happy snaps. There was plenty of
prospects for everyone.
We left a bit before
sunset as the place was just getting too crowded and we did not relish driving
in Mandalay traffic after dark. When we
returned the motorcycle after the drive in the rush hour traffic we both had
the wobbly knees and adrenaline rush of having just come through quite an
ordeal and survived!
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Traffic in Mandalay |
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Petrol station |
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The bowser |
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