Shamballa Cruising Yacht Club: Chios (Χιος)

Windmills of Chios

The winds were fairly strong from the north during our time in Karlovasi with the wind howling up to 55 knots on one of the days. We had five lines and springs tying us to the quay and Songster was nicely secure. Finally after 5 nights in Karlovasi harbour we finally had benign weather predictions so it was time to move on. While in Karlovasi we had befriended the one other yacht which was moored on the quay. Bat Yam is owned by a lovely Israeli couple who had two friends also on board. We had drinks on their boat and amazingly found a mutual acquaintance. The world is a small place.

We started for Chios early in the morning. It was drizzly and dreary. We were kitted up in full wet weather gear. With the wind predictions we thought we might have a reasonable motorsail to Chios but the winds on the preceding days had stirred up the sea and we had a rather bouncy and rough motor only to Chios.

Bashing through the waves

Bob in wet weather gear and nautical hat

After about 6 hours of bashing through the waves with the wind on the nose, we arrived at Chios marina, just north of the main Chios harbour. This marina is one of many disused, half-built marinas dotted around Greece. There are spaces to moor alongside but no electricity or water facilities. The area is a bit of a shambles with some abandoned boats but the harbour offers good protection, it is an easy walk into town and its free. The local fishermen have taken over the place and moor their boats on the smaller wharfs but there is room for half a dozen visiting yachts.

Songster in the abandoned marina of Chios

Our first day on the island of Chios we explored the main town. Along the waterfront road we noticed a little harbour down a side road. We went to explore and found an empty but sizable enclosed harbour. Along the rocky shoreline were dozens of silver UNHCR tents occupied by Syrians – young men and families with small children. The camp extended all along the old castle wall. We talked to an aide worker, an Irish woman working for the NGO called ‘A Drop in the Ocean’ which offer support and bring supplies to the refugees. Unlike the Australian concentration camps for asylum seekers, the refugees in Greece are free to come and go from the camp and integrate into the community. We asked a few locals how the refugees were received and they all said there were no issues. Nevertheless, it was sobering to see the rough conditions they were living. The nights are still chilly here and living in small tents on a rocky beach would not be pleasant.

UNHCR tents on the rocky beach

Refugee camp under the castle wall

We walked on into town and went into the castle. This castle is known as the ‘new’ castle as opposed to the ‘old’ castle which dated from Byzantine times. This new castle was built mainly by the Genoese in the 14^th Century then taken over by the Ottomans in the 16^th Century until 1912 when the island became part of Greece.

Eileen outside the castle

We expected the usual crumbling ramparts and a few old ruins. Instead we found a complete community of houses along narrow winding streets. Some buildings had been renovated and others were near collapse but the area was quite a thriving community. Many were in the Turkish style of overhanging enclosed balconies. There was a beatuifully restored Turkish Hammam (public baths) that was lovely. Walking around was a taking a step back into time.