Carnival in Lefkas, Greece

The word Carnival evokes images of ornately and scantily clad Brazilian beauties dancing down the streets of Rio or if you are Australian, the Gay and Lesbian Mardi Gras parade in Sydney.

Carnival in Brazil

Sydney Mardi Gras

In Greece, Apokries is the celebration of Carnival.  Apokries (αποχή από κρέας) literally means ‘abstain from meat’ and marks the beginning of Lent in the Greek Orthodox tradition.  But as with most Christian traditions, Apokreis also has its roots in the ancient traditions and is a celebration of the coming of spring and Dionysos, the God of Wine and Feast (and I suspect Dionysos gets the biggest nod in Apokries celebraions).  The largest carnival in Greece is in the city of Patras, near the Rion-Andirion Bridge, which we passed under so spectacularly in early November.

Here in Lefkas, Carnival celebrations consist of 10 days of cultural events, parades and parties.  Many of the clubs and pubs, which have been sleepy all winter, have awakened to become gaily decorated party venues that are hopping into the wee hours of the morning.

List of Carnival events

 

 

Our favourite place for gyros

Friday afternoon was the children's parade for Carnival.  It was suppose to be the previous Friday but was postponed due to rain (of course during this wettest of winters!).  We were quite glad of the postponement as we were not aware of it the previous week.  The parade was great to see.  Each school was dressed up in different themes.  Everyone was blowing whistles and making as much noise as possible.  The teachers were having as much fun as the kids.  

 

Celebrating Chinese New Year - Year of the Dog

 

 

 

Mexicans in Greece

Sunday evening was the adult parade which was amazing.  It lasted for over 3 hours.  The costumes and floats were just incredible.  The music and noise deafening and everyone was dancing and buzzing with joie de vivre.  We couldn’t imagine were everyone came from.  There were hundreds participating in the parade in elaborate costumes and floats that must have taken months to make, plus spectators lined the pedestrian mall parade route like sardines.  Lefkas only has 8600 people and everyone seemed to take part in the Carnaval.  Greeks do these community events so well.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

The following day was 'Clean Monday' (Καθαρά Δευτέρα) which marks the start of Lent and spring.  I suspect there were a few people nursing hangovers in the morning!  But the tradition for the day is for families to go on picnics with special foods and to fly kites.  No meat is eaten but seafood is allowed.  A must on the menu is flat bread called lagana which is dipped in taramosalata, a delicious dip of salted roe followed by halva for desert.

 

 

Celebrations finished – now bring on spring!

A few flowers beginning to bloom

But the mountains are still topped with snow

I Hate Winter! – The Battle with Rain and Mould

During the season I was looking forward to spending most of the winter on Songster.  It would be another aspect of the live aboard life I was eager to experience.  Oh the naivety of the newbie!  The previous three winters since buying Songster we spent the majority of the northern hemisphere winter travelling in warmer climes.  When we had returned to Songster in late winter or early spring she was dry and welcoming.  It is quite a different story when we are living, breathing and cooking on her during one of the wettest winters Lefkada locals can remember.

Since arriving at Lefkas in early November I can remember only one week where we had sun.  The skies have been very gray and dreary and rain seems to fall five days out of every seven.  Every breath we take, every cup of tea we make causes condensation.  We bought a dehumidifier which runs 24/7 and although we empty cups of water from it each day, it just cannot cope with the saturated atmosphere.  Every day we open another cupboard only to find a fresh crop of mould waiting for yet another attack with vinegar or bleach.   

View of Lefkas Marina on a non-rainy day

Snow on the mountains

Unknown leaks and undiscovered dodgy wiring have revealed themselves.  The lining inside of the boat has been stripped down to investigate.  Except for the forward hatch which we knew needed resealing, all the ‘leaks’ have turned out to be condensation.  I am really wondering how not to breathe at night so we don’t wake up every morning with water dripping off the windows!  We have made some temporary ‘double glazing’ for the big hatches which seems to help a bit.

Under the lining looking for leaks

The wiring for the wind instruments under the mast

Our temporary bubble wrap double glazing

All the wet weather and our innate indolence mean that the major winter projects, such as rigging, mast work and varnishing, are not getting done.  The rigging needs replacing – we have had no problems with it but it has been over 10 year since its last refresh and it is due for another.  The B&G wind instruments also need fixing.  As is often the case with a nearly 40 year old boat, these instruments are no longer made nor serviced by the manufacturer.  Bob has been beavering away at the problem and after several trips up the mast on the few non wet or windy days, much head scratching and tinkering with wiring, we think we have identified the issue.  But it will take several more trips up the mast and shipping parts to and from the UK before we are sure.  Finally varnishing may just have to wait until the spring.

Bob up the mast

It is a long way down

View across the marina

Still on the days when we are not hunkered down from wild wind and rain, or uninspired to get out of bed with the dreary gray skies, we do try to take some long walks and enjoy the beauty of Lefkas.

Overlooking the Lagoon

Agios Ioannis Beach

Flamingos in the lagoon

Winter grasses

Full moon over the marina

Epiphany in Lefkada

 

Today was Epiphany on Lefkada.  Being heathens, we had to Google what Epiphany was all about.  It is the commemoration of the baptism of Jesus by John the Baptist.  It is celebrated all over the Christian world, of course, but each regional area seems to have their own unique celebratory customs.  

We remembered two years ago that while travelling by train in Spain at this time of year a whole group of revellers, some dressed as Magis, came into our carriage very happy and gave us handfuls of candies/lollies.  In Spain, Epiphany is the day when the children get their presents, not Christmas.  The hotel we were staying at in Algeciras had a big party for the kids in one of their function rooms - there were jumping castles and kids totally hyper on sweets but having a great time as were the parents and grandparents.

The Epiphany cake in Spain two years ago - quite a bit warmer than here in Lefkas

The children's party in Spain

Here in Greece the celebratory customs involve the Blessing of the Waters but each area has its own unique contribution to the festivities. In some areas people parade around town dressed up as goblins (Καλικάντζαρο) and light bonfires.  In other areas people wander from house to house singing carols.  In Lefkada, oranges are added to the celebration of the Blessings of the Waters.  

We went into town early and got a prime spot on the bridge across the harbour channel to watch the festivities.  About an hour before the start of the ceremony, people started to line up along the waterfront holding bunches of oranges tied together by their stalks with a long string or ribbon.  Boats of all sizes, including the Coast Guard, sailed into the harbour channel.

Lining up along the waterfront with bunches of oranges on a string

Boats gathering in the channel

Then a marching band paraded down the waterfront road ahead of the Bishop and several priests all in their finest regalia.  The priests went into an open marquee and sang and chanted.  Meanwhile a group of hardy men and boys lined up at the water’s edge and began to strip down to their swimmers.  The bishop threw a cross attached with a long line into the water three times to bless the water.  

The marching band - very good musicians

The men and boys waiting for the time to retrieve the cross

The blessing of the waters

The water and the boats blessed

 Then the cross was detached from its line.  Now it was time for the men and boys to show their stuff.  The minute the priest threw the cross into the harbour, the boys dived into the frigid water to recover the cross.  The one who brought the cross to the surface is said to receive blessings and good luck throughout the year.  

Getting ready to dive in

The cross retrieved

Getting out of the frigid water

Meanwhile all along the water people dipped their oranges in the water three times signifying the Holy Trinity.  These oranges dipped in the blessed water are taken home and put in front of the icons to give blessings and prosperity to the house for the coming year.  The oranges from last year, now desiccated brown balls, are thrown back into the water.  The harbour was filled with bobbing brown orange balls.

Dipping oranges in the blessed water

With the main events completed the band, priests and the lucky retriever of the cross marched out of town.

The band heading away from the waterfront

The priests in their finest robes

The Bishop's crown

The very happy and proud young man who retrieved the cross

It was a great privilege and lots of fun to watch this impressive community event.