Sailing

Sailing: the fine art of getting wet and becoming ill while slowly going nowhere at great expense.

Friday 21 February 2020

Caribbean Reflections


I am way behind in writing these blog posts.  It has been over six weeks since we have left Bequia and we have sailed to four island countries in that time.  Yet I am having a hard time writing about these beautiful places.  There is no doubt that the Caribbean is an ideal holiday spot.  Compared to the Mediterranean the sailing is much better with good consistent winds.  The beaches are sandy and lined with coconut palms.  The weather is balmy with a pleasant breeze to keep it comfortable.  The snorkelling is fantastic with an abundant variety of beautifully coloured fish.  But the Mediterranean has the extensive culture and antiquity that is missing here.  Now we are slowly discovering and appreciating the very different Caribbean history and culture and the beautiful people of the islands. 

To catch up on our travels, I will let the pictures do most of the talking.  After Bequia we went to Saint Anne in Martinique where we stayed for two weeks.  We were back in Euroland where there was good coffee, great provisioning and reasonable prices.
The anchorage of Sainte Anne
Provisioning Caribbean style - dinghy dock behind the supermarket
Another beautiful Caribbean sunset
We then moved on to the pretty bay of Anse Chaudiere with a charming village, crystal clear water and good snorkelling.
The dock of Anse Chaudiere
Beautiful beaches and clear water
One of my favourite fish - jeweled damsel fish
We moved north into the large bay of Fort de France, first spending a night or two in Anse Mitan (birthplace of Empress Josephine) then going across the bay to anchor under the old fort in the capital.  There is a lot of history here of sieges, conquests and slavery – old buildings, street art and introduced iguanas.
Schoelcher Library
 
Street art
Fort Saint Louis
One of the introduced iguanas.  Unfortunately they are killing off the native iguana species.
Anchorage under Fort Saint Louis
Our final stop in Martinique was Sainte-Pierre.  In 1902 Mount Peéle erupted killing 30,000 people and destroying this once premiere city of Martinique.  The town has never recovered.
Mount Peéle
Photo of the destruction from the volcanic eruption in 1902
Sainte-Pierre today still with the ruined buildings
Sunday boules
We moved up the island chain to Portsmouth, Dominica, a poor but very proud island nation of stunning natural beauty.  The country was devastated in 2017 from Hurricane Maria but with substantial aid from China and lots of hard work by the locals, this beautiful island has made a remarkable recovery.
Miracle Beach - created by nature only a few years previously
Trafalgar Falls
Indian River - quite magical
 
 
 

We returned again to Euroland when we arrived at another French overseas territory, Guadeloupe.  Our first stop was, Les Saintes, a small group of islands to the south of the main island.  This was a great little anchorage where we snorkelled and took long walks ashore.
The main anchorage of Terre de Haute
The main island of Guadeloupe is in the distance
We crossed over to a very nice little marina, Marina de Riviere Sens, just southeast of the capital, Basse Terre.  Here we enjoyed a week of the convenience of staying at a marina, catching up on laundry and provisioning while exploring the city and its history and renting a car for a road trip around the western ‘wing’ of this butterfly shaped island. 

Fort Delgres
Tribute to Louis Delgres, resistance fighter whose final words were 'Live free or die'.
Carnaval celebrations near the marina
We moved up the west coast to Plage de Malendure/Pigeon Island part of the Jacques Cousteau Marine Park.  The snorkelling was superb and I managed to get some wonderful underwater photos.  The green turtles swam within a few feet of me – beautiful creatures.
Queen Parrot fish
Yellow cheeked wrase
Blue stripped grunt and blue tang
File fish
Green Turtle
Our final stop in Guadeloupe was the northern town of Deshaies.  This attractive town is known for the film set of the British/French TV series, Death in Paradise.  But Deshaies is special in its own right.  We enjoyed Carnival here and some of the best and worst of nature.
'Police Station' in Death in Paradise
Carnaval
From the float
Boys crack these robe whips making a sound like firecrackers exploding
High winds saw boats dragging their anchors and drifting into other boats
Then Mother Nature provides exquisite rainbows
and stunning sunsets
That was a very brief account of our last six weeks in the Caribbean.  We are now in Antigua and I hope to keep up with the blog better in order to give a more detailed account of these beautiful islands.