A major reason for coming to Iran was so we
could experience the Trans-Asia Express going from Tehran to Ankara, touted as
being one of the great train journeys.
Sadly we were unable to get tickets for the train. But as so often happens in the serendipity of
‘no fixed abode’ travel, this closed door opened many more. We were going to stay only in Tehran for just
a few days then catch the train. Because
we couldn’t get tickets we ended up having a fantastic two weeks in Iran and
visiting several amazing towns and cities.
What can I say about Iran except it is
nothing like I was led to believe by the media. In all our travels (and
between us we have been to 45 countries), Iranians are amongst the most
friendly, generous and kind people we have ever met. I admit I came to Iran with some trepidation,
mainly around the legal requirements of the women’s dress code, but also
because of 30+ years of sanctions and anti-American sentiment, although I am
travelling on my Australian passport. I
needn’t have worried. Iran is a modern
nation of friendly people, shops filled with the latest consumer goods, fast,
cheap and convenient public transport and plenty of delicious and nutritious
food. It looks and feels like any European city.
Certainly the theocratic government has
ridiculous and draconian laws that suppress freedoms and I do not want to be
dismissive of this in my praise of the people.
These laws are truly awful and the censorship very strict. I hated having to cover my legs, arms and
head every time I went in public, especially in the 35oC heat, and
as a tourist I had more leeway than the locals.
On city buses women must sit in the back – Where is the Iranian Rosa
Parks? Facebook is blocked and I could
not read any blogs on the web. News
stories from reputable sources such as the ABC were blocked if they had the
word ‘sex’ or ‘gay’ in them. Many people
are in prison for their political or religious beliefs that do not comply with
the strict Sharia interpretations. But the
people all seem to rise above this and are really quite wonderful.
We have received numerous acts of
generosity. Once when we were puzzling over a map at a metro station some
men came to our aid and after explaining which train to take one said 'You are
my guest' and paid for our fare. Then another time we were buying a loaf
of freshly made Iranian bread (Sangak) and puzzling over the cost when another
customer said in hand gestures and Farsi to not worry about it he would
pay. Then another time when we were buying fresh bread (they make it on a
rotary oven and you buy it just as it pops out of the oven, still almost too
hot to touch - delicious) and had the money ready in our hand, the baker waved
us away and gave it to us for free. All the shop keepers and taxi drivers
have been scrupulously honest and we have never yet had to haggle over a fair
price. Most prices are set and the merchants will show you the money you
need to pay to help with our confusion over Tomans and Rials and too many zeros
on the currency. The contrast to how we were treated in India is leaving
us feeling like we are in heaven.
We have also noticed that many Iranians are
not such strict observers of their Shia Islam. During Ramadan many are
eating during the day, although restaurants are generally closed. In Tehran our
host let us know of a hotel which served lunch and we expected it to be full of
foreign tourist, instead we were the only foreigners and it was full of
Iranians having a full meal in the middle of the day. When the call to
prayer comes we see very few leave the streets for the Mosque. While in
front of an anti-American mural we had a conversation with a young man in his
mid to late twenties who made it clear through broken English and sign language
that he fully acknowledged the absurdity of much of religion. One night
at dinner we had a lovely conversation with two sisters who were of the B'hai
faith. As non-Muslims they are not allowed to attend university nor work
for the government. The older sister was getting around this by taking
university courses on line. She is studying psychology and most of her
professors are in prison for speaking out against the government.
Although these girls were frustrated by their lack of opportunity, they were
not bitter and just kept plugging along as best they could to work around an
unfair system.
I just can't help thinking that if the
international powers had just left Iran alone from all their geopolitical
meddling over the last 150 years, then Iran would be a model nation.
But I started this blog talking about
trains and we did get to experience an Iranian train going from Tehran to
Qazvin. The ultra modern fast, clean and
comfortable train took us the 150km in under 1 1/2 hours. Attendants came
by with tea, snacks and sandwiches to buy then gave us a complimentary food
package of biscuits (3 different kinds) and juice. All this for the cost
of the train ticket - $3.50 each! It made the trains in Australia really
look third rate -and they are! Our rail system is a disgrace. There
has been talk of putting in a high speed train for years and lobby groups and
politicians have stalled the process and nothing has happened.
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| Modern train from Tehran to Qazvin |
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