Jaipur, the Pink City

Well more a terracotta orange colour really, but none the less still beautiful.  Jaipur is our second favourite Indian city after Shimla.  The Rajasthani architecture of dome-shaped pavilions (Chhatris), latticed marble screens (Jaali), ornately painted or inlaid designs on the walls and overhanging enclosed balconies (Jharokhas) is charming and beautiful. 

A planned city built in the early the early 1700’s.  The streets are wide and laid out in a grid.  Consequently even today Jaipur is not as hectic as other Indian cities.  It is desert country here and the monsoons are late this year so it is extra dry.  Still there are many green spots and our hotel is the best we have had so far with a lovely garden area and shady veranda where we can sit in the evening sipping (sadly only non-alcoholic) cold drinks. 

City streets of Jaipur

Veranda of the Hotel Arya Niwas

The walls of the buildings are painted in beautifully ornate frescos.

Walls in  a cafe

ceiling to an entranceway

Another entranceway

The city is filled with palaces and beautiful buildings and we spent hours exploring them.   

 

Hawa Mahal - Palace of the Winds

The Maharajas are still very much part of the city.  Their lineage dates back to 1562 with Raja Bhagmal who was recognised as a Raja of the Mogul Empire in return for giving his daughter to the harem of the Emperor Akbar.  Pictures of the successive Maharajas are everywhere in the city.  Their reigns are full of palace intrigue, adopted sons and disputes in lineage.  They pilfered wealth from the masses by constant wars and exploitation but the masses, who mostly still live in poverty, love their obscenely rich Maharajas.  Our favourite was Madho Singh who was 1.2 metres wide and weighed 250 kilograms but interestingly had 108 wives but no children.

 

Some of the Maharajas

Marble, marble everywhere

Tomb of Jai Singh II

Entrance to City Palace

On the hilltop a few kilometres outside Jaipur is the original site of occupation for the area.  The Amber Palace was built in 1599 by Raja Man Singh and was the capital until 1727 when the fort was abandoned due to lack of water.  The city walls stretch along the ridges of the hills looking like the Great Wall of China.  

Visitors can ride elephants up the hill and enter through the huge elephant gates in true Maharaja style.  We didn’t spend the 900 rupees each to do so but I did get to have a nice close encounter with one of these beautiful creatures.

 

Tourist entering the palace - note the hawker already hassling the tourist

Elephants at the bottom of the hill waiting for tourists

Eileen hugging an elephant

Inside the palace and fort complex are exquisite rooms and views.

 

Inlaid mirrors

Palace on the Lake

The Far Pavilions

Rajasthan is full of fantastic faces and scenes that epitomise the postcard tourist visions of India.

Sadu rolling a fag

Doorman

Snake charmer - cobra defanged and perfectly harmless

Beggar girl

 

Palace guards

We are leaving India and Nepal after three months of travel, having visited 16 different locations.  A bit of reflection is in order but it will take some time to get my head around all the experiences and impressions.  It is nice to end our time in India on a high note visiting the great city of Jaipur.  

Next stop Tehran.