The Atlantic Coast, Morocco

In our little Renault, we headed west from the desert to the Atlantic coast driving through the city of Agadir and stopping at a town 15 km north called Taghazout, an interesting town known for its rolling surf and a mecca for young surfie types.  The town has a feel about it of 1960’s Byron Bay (without the overt ganja and booze as, like most towns in Morocco, Taghazout is dry).

Surfers coming in for the day

Camels and fishing boats

We were having some difficulty finding suitable accommodation so did what we never do and took up the offer of a tout.  We were offered a little apartment right on the beach front.  On first sight it struck us as a bit grubby but we ended up taking the place for 3 nights.  It was one of those classic cases of poor communication between Bob, me and the tout.  When we had a closer look at the red lights in the lounge and drapes hanging from the ceiling we had a sneaking suspicion that this flat must be a part-time ‘knocking shop’, confirmed when we found strategically located packages of condoms.  Oh dear, this was definitely not one of our best choices.

Our apartment was just behind the rock wall

Despite our less than ideal accommodation we enjoyed our time in Taghazout.  We got to know few of the shop keepers, explored the surrounding area and found a favourite restaurant (Josephines – run by a lovely Armenian French woman whose name is not Josephine.  The restaurant is named after a donkey she had rescued.  She also raises money from tips to save cats and dogs which tend to have the run of the restaurant.).

Josephine's Restaurant

Inspecting the daily catch

The sunsets every evening were spectacular.

Another day we drove to Agadir to check out the marina and met a lovely young English couple that had sailed there.  We got the scoop on rates and facilities and Agadir marina is definitely on our list of possible stopovers when we come by this way in Songster.

Agadir

One morning we watched the fishermen come in unloading about 50 twenty litre containers of fuel.  They had taken their little fishing boats to Agadir to buy fuel.  Apparently the marina sells it for 5 Dirham a litre (about 80 cents) compared to 9 Dirham (about $1.20) at the petrol station.  So a huge savings can be made on a 1000 litre purchase for the fishing co-op.  It was quite a sight to watch these heavily laden fishing boats surf in on the waves then everyone come to unload the fuel while the boat is still being buffeted by the waves.  Finally a tractor winches up the empty boat and puts it high on the beach, until the next day when it will go out to catch fish.

Bringing in the fishing boats

We had only two more days on our car rental so had to move north.  We drove up the coast to Essaouira, a delightful walled town.  We were entertained by acrobats while having lunch.

Acrobats

The old city wall

We made our way to the harbour to check out the marina.  Unlike Agadir, this is not a place we would want to spend any time.  It is very much a working harbour with quite a swell coming in.  The few yachts there had to be rafted up to some of the working boats.  We chatted with one yacht flying a British flag and, small world, they had just bought their catamaran, SV Higgins, in Marmaris last September (on closer inspection we remember seeing it on Bravo pontoon).  He and his family are on the way to the Canary Islands and then across the Atlantic.

Fishing boats coming in

The working harbour

A quick one night in Essaouira then up at dawn to drive to Marrakech to return the car and catch the next train to Tangier to stay at our favourite hotel – ‘When in Tangiers we always stay at the Continental, don’t you know.’

Bye Morocco

So we say goodbye to Morocco.  I really enjoyed our three weeks in this fascinating country.  I wish it well in the future.  It has a lot of potential and if the troubles besetting some of the other Arab countries can be kept at bay and the government invests in its great asset of its young people, then I can see a country that will grow and lead.