Shamballa Cruising Yacht Club: Ancient Knidos

After 5 days on Nisyros, Onyx went west to Astipalaia and we made a clandestine trip back to Turkey to see the ancient ruins of Knidos. Knidos was a huge ancient city was part of the Dorian Hexapolis which included the modern day city of Bodrum in Turkey, Kos and several cities on the island of Rhodes in Greece. It was a major trade route and Anthony and Cleopatra stayed here in their travels. The site itself is not that well preserved but the views all around are stunning.

On our way to Knidos on a gray day

We had a short run from Nisyros to Knidos of only 12.5nm and were able to sail essentially the whole way – almost unheard of in the Motorterranean. Sadly it was a rather dreary gray day but no matter, it was great to sail and not have the rumble of the engine. We anchored in the harbour and went ashore to explore the ruins. As with all these ancient sites, we so wish we could be in a time machine to experience what it was really like to live back then. The stoas and agora must have been wonderful vibrant public spaces.

Sheep grazing amongst the ruins

The agora with the small harbour

That evening we ate onboard and had planned an early night and a good night’s sleep. Mother Nature had other ideas. About 10pm the winds had picked up to over 20 knots. We were bouncing around a bit but holding fast. Not so several other boats in the anchorage. Several boats dragged their anchors. Two boats bailed, left the bay and when out to sea. Not sure if they found another more sheltered anchorage or if they just hove to in the open sea all night. Another boat stayed and re-anchored. We watched for some time in the moonlight to make sure none of the 4 remaining boats were dragging. Everyone seemed secure and we thought we might be able to get some sleep as the winds were easing slightly when a huge motor yacht came into the anchorage. The boat had big flood lights and tried several times to anchor. One attempt was to take a line to the rickety wooden pontoon near the restaurant. The owner came running out chasing them away as the massive motor yacht would have easily ripped the pontoon to shreds. Finally at about 1am we managed to put our heads down for a bouncy and rolling sleep.

The anchorage before the blow and amphitheatre

The next morning we decided to walk to the lighthouse. The path was little more than a goat track, very narrow at times and our legs were quite scratched. But all worth it as the exercise felt good, the scenery beautiful and the hills full of wild flowers and strange fauna.