Sailing

Sailing: the fine art of getting wet and becoming ill while slowly going nowhere at great expense.

Saturday 25 February 2017

Wild Borneo: Sabah - Kota Kinabalu and Papar


Jesselton Point
When planning our 4 months away from Songster we decided to go to Northern Borneo where Bob worked for 9 months in 1973 doing a coastal survey job and living in tents and grass huts.  Bob dug up some of his old photos from that time and we have been going on the ‘Footsteps of Bob Nostalgia Tour’ of Sabah, Brunei and Sarawak.  I am hoping Bob will write a post giving his then and now perspective of our trip but until then I will give the highlights of our travels

The sights flying into Kota Kinabalu (KK) were spectacular – pristine islands, coral reefs, clear blue water.  I was very excited to be landing in wild Borneo, the land of jungles, orang-utans and head-hunters and the subject of endless nature shows I watched as a kid.  What we found in KK was a dynamic, modern, cosmopolitan city – big hotels, endless shopping malls with all the big name shops and streets lined with restaurants serving cuisines from around the world.

Our first day we hired a car to drive to Papar, a town about 50 km down the coast, where Bob had a camp in 1973.  We found the street corner where Bob had taken a photo in 1973 and except for more cars, not much had changed.
1973
2017
But out on the beach things were quite different.  Instead of a dirt road and jungle there was now a sealed road, nice houses and open spaces.  We had a lovely walk on the beach, which we had all to ourselves and got our feet wet in the warm South China Sea.  On the deserted beach with the bush hiding the houses one could imagine how it might have been in 1973.
 
 
Back in KK that evening we went to the night fish markets.  What an amazing feast for eyes and stomach!  A huge market of stalls stretched before us with every imaginable type of fish and seafood, many I had never seen before.  Dinners would wander through the stalls and pick the items they wanted and they would be cooked on the spot.  We just went up and down the stalls agog looking at the displays.  We happened upon an Australian couple from Queensland (one of the few ferringi (foreigners) we have come across) who were in heaven in front a huge pile of various shellfish.  We weren’t intending to have dinner as we had had a late lunch but couldn’t resist.  We settled on sharing a lovely grilled fish – fantastic.
Dinners enjoying themselves
I have never seen such large prawns!
Fresh colourful fish
Shellfish of every kind
Or maybe some sea weed on the side?
Fish grilling on a bamboo leaf

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