On to the Sporades

From Thasos we toyed with the idea of next sailing to the Khalkidhiki Peninsula.  These are the three fingers sticking out from the northern Greek mainland, east of Thessalonika.  The Akti finger is an autonomous area inhabited by monks.  Mt Athos looms out of the southern tip and monasteries dot the cliffs.  Women are not allowed on the peninsula nor within 1 nm off the coast.  The area is suppose to be very pretty but given the weather predictions, long distances to any suitable anchorage and the misogynistic rules, we decided to head towards our ultimate destination, the Northern Sporades, where the much anticipated Cruising Association get together was happening in a week’s time.

The Khalkidhiki Peninsula

First stop was back to Myrina in Lemnos.  We spent a few days there anchored in the harbour; provisioning, catching up with friends (our Israeli friends from Bat Yam were on the town quay) and waiting out some strong winds.  Finally after 4 nights at anchor we were up at dawn for the long sail to the Northern Sporades.

Sunrise leaving Myrina Harbour

About two hours into our sail a pod of a dozen dolphins joined us for a short time.  Then six remained and swam in our bow wave for a good 20 minutes.  It is such a thrill to see these magnificent animals up close and in action.

 

 

We arrived at the cyclone anchorage of Planitis on Kyria Panagia mid-afternoon.  The northern most islands of the Sporades are part of a nature reserve.  Kyria Panagia is uninhabited and quite beautiful.  When we arrived there was only one other yacht in the anchorage. Throughout the late afternoon about 4 others arrived but the bay was big enough that it was still a quiet, secluded place.  I decided to go for a swim, the first of the season.  I had on 3 layers – swimmers, short wetsuit and long sleeve swim top.  After the initial shock the water was quite pleasant.  I did notice that people from the other yachts went in with just swimmers but those northern Europeans are a hardier bunch than I am.  Water temperature below 17-18 degrees is just too cold for me.

The quiet and secure anchorage of Planitis on Kyria Panagi

 

The next day we went south to the island of Alonnisos.  We chose an anchorage, Rousoumi Bay, which on paper looked quite good but turned to be too narrow and rolly with steep rocky cliffs looming up on either side of us.  It was too bad because the setting was quite pretty.

Those cliffs were just a bit too close for comfort

A big northerly wind was predicted for the next few days so we needed to find a good protected anchorage.  Loutraki on Skopelos fit the bill.  We anchored in the harbour, well dug in with plenty of rode out.  The winds were due to start the next day so we went ashore to get a few provisions.  There on the pontoon were Michael and Julia from Julia Too.  We hadn’t seen Julia since last season and it was great to catch up over a cuppa.  

 

The next two days we remained on the boat waiting out the wind.  I realised that over the previous 5 days we had been off the boat only once.  I find it quite relaxing reading, listening to audio books and pottering around the boat.  For the last 3 years we have been travelling constantly with no fixed abode.  I find some quiet days on Songster just the ticket for recharging.  

Finally the day came for the much anticipated CA get together which was being held in Nea Klima, about 2 nm south of Loutraki. We motored the short distance to the harbour. Shortly after we tied up alongside the quay, CA members from four of the boats already there converged onto Songster for a morning cuppa.  There were 10 of us in the cockpit and I was amazed we all fit comfortably.  It was great catching up with old friends and making new ones.

Morning tea was followed by a picnic lunch as more yachts arrived. .  Altogether seven yachts gathered in the harbour.  That night we had a fantastic dinner at a local taverna: Great food, great company, great conversation.  As Michael, the great orator of the group said, it are get-togethers like this that make the sailing experience so special.  Robin and Suzie did a terrific job organising the occasion.  It was a great success and a privilege to have been part of it.

The CA picnic lunch

The gang for dinner at O Vaggelis Taverna in Neo Klima

Afterwards, the owner of the taverna gave all the women a hand painted rock done by his wife as a memento of the occasion – Such gestures are so typical of the generous nature of Greeks.  

A wonderful memento