Skyros: The best yacht harbour in Greece

Sadly there was no wind for our 43 nm passage to Skyros.  We had to motor the whole way but at least it was a warm, sunny day.  The disappointment in motoring for 7 hours was more than made up by the wonderful reception we had at Linaria Harbour in Skyros.  This harbour is the best set up for cruising yachts that we have encountered to date.  Sakis, the harbour master, came out to greet us, helped us into an along side berth and even provided steps for us to get on and off the boat easily.  Bob asked Sakis where the red carpet was as the treatment was so good here! Then when we were settled, Sakis let us know of all the facilities on offer; showers, laundry, WiFi, book exchange, recycling, TV, and computer.  It was as good as the best marinas but just a small village harbour.  It is the initiative of Sakis and a small group of people who have great pride in their island and are working very hard to make it an environmentally friendly special place for all to enjoy.

Linaria Harbour in Skyros

Steps provided by Skyros Port Fund

Sakis and crew going around the waterfront on their electric scooters

Shortly after we arrived we were walking on the waterfront and bumped into the NZ couple who we helped to untangle their anchor in Skiathos.  We properly introduced ourselves and ended up going to the Chora with them in their rented car and having dinner together, sharing stories and comparing notes on ‘Down Under’; a very pleasant evening.

The Chora of Skyros

The next day we rented a car to tour the island.  First we went to the northern half of the island.  It was lush pine forest and pretty vistas along rugged coasts.  We stopped at the archaeological site of Palamari, a 5000 year old Bronze age settlement.  It is always humbling to walk around areas where others lived so long ago.  Our imaginations go on overdrive thinking about what life was life then.

 

 

Such a beautiful setting

 Continuing around the western coastline we found a pretty little bay with a great taverna, Stamatias.  It was not ‘officially’ open for the season yet but they happily served us a delicious lunch.  A Greek film doing a documentary on the island.  A feast was set up on the table next to us – stuffed lobster, seafood pasta, dolmades, dips, bread, wine – pictures were taken then the taverna owners and film crew sat down to eat it all.  It made our meal of calamari and Greek salad quite modest but it was delicious none the less.

The bay where we had lunch

Feast for the film crew

Our modest table

The next day we went to the southern part of the island.  It was a stark contrast to the lush northern area.  The south was a rocky, barren, lonely place.   

The barren landscape sculpted by wind and goats

The road crews seem to have a sense of humour and have piled rocks along the road side in bizarre sculptures

We were in search of the grave of Rupert Brooke.  Brooke was a promising English poet who died in 1915 at 27 years of age from blood poisoning enroute to the Gallipoli campaign.  Perhaps one of his best known poems is The Soldier.  “If I should die, think only this of me: That there’s some corner of a foreign field, That is for ever England.”  It was quite poignant given the lonely olive grove in which he was buried.

Rupert Brooke's grave

His famous poem

The rocky terrain of the south of the island took its toll on our ‘rent-a-bomb’.  We got a flat tyre and the spare was flat too.  We were in a remote desolate part of the island.  We tried to ring the rental company but there was no answer.  Then the Hellenic Navy came to the rescue.  A member from the nearby Naval base came up the road and offered to take Bob and our spare back to base to pump it up. Thank you Hellenic Navy!

Our 'rent-a-bomb' with a flat tyre

Go Navy!

Skyros is known for its unique wildlife and environment and much effort goes to preserving the fragile environment.  A unique breed of wild pony is one of the species the island is preserving.  We did manage to see one, though how they survive in such a barren environment is a near miracle.

Skyros pony

While in Skyros we had some swims in the nearby bay.  The water is just getting warm enough to tolerate.  I decided to try out the underwater function of my camera.  I was quite pleased with my first attempts and over the months am looking forward to getting some more shots.