Sailing

Sailing: the fine art of getting wet and becoming ill while slowly going nowhere at great expense.

Sunday 7 January 2018

Epiphany in Lefkada



 
Today was Epiphany on Lefkada.  Being heathens, we had to Google what Epiphany was all about.  It is the commemoration of the baptism of Jesus by John the Baptist.  It is celebrated all over the Christian world, of course, but each regional area seems to have their own unique celebratory customs.  

We remembered two years ago that while travelling by train in Spain at this time of year a whole group of revellers, some dressed as Magis, came into our carriage very happy and gave us handfuls of candies/lollies.  In Spain, Epiphany is the day when the children get their presents, not Christmas.  The hotel we were staying at in Algeciras had a big party for the kids in one of their function rooms - there were jumping castles and kids totally hyper on sweets but having a great time as were the parents and grandparents.
The Epiphany cake in Spain two years ago - quite a bit warmer than here in Lefkas
The children's party in Spain
Here in Greece the celebratory customs involve the Blessing of the Waters but each area has its own unique contribution to the festivities. In some areas people parade around town dressed up as goblins (Καλικάντζαρο) and light bonfires.  In other areas people wander from house to house singing carols.  In Lefkada, oranges are added to the celebration of the Blessings of the Waters.  

We went into town early and got a prime spot on the bridge across the harbour channel to watch the festivities.  About an hour before the start of the ceremony, people started to line up along the waterfront holding bunches of oranges tied together by their stalks with a long string or ribbon.  Boats of all sizes, including the Coast Guard, sailed into the harbour channel.
Lining up along the waterfront with bunches of oranges on a string

Boats gathering in the channel
Then a marching band paraded down the waterfront road ahead of the Bishop and several priests all in their finest regalia.  The priests went into an open marquee and sang and chanted.  Meanwhile a group of hardy men and boys lined up at the water’s edge and began to strip down to their swimmers.  The bishop threw a cross attached with a long line into the water three times to bless the water.  
The marching band - very good musicians
The men and boys waiting for the time to retrieve the cross
The blessing of the waters
The water and the boats blessed
 Then the cross was detached from its line.  Now it was time for the men and boys to show their stuff.  The minute the priest threw the cross into the harbour, the boys dived into the frigid water to recover the cross.  The one who brought the cross to the surface is said to receive blessings and good luck throughout the year.  
Getting ready to dive in
The cross retrieved
Getting out of the frigid water
Meanwhile all along the water people dipped their oranges in the water three times signifying the Holy Trinity.  These oranges dipped in the blessed water are taken home and put in front of the icons to give blessings and prosperity to the house for the coming year.  The oranges from last year, now desiccated brown balls, are thrown back into the water.  The harbour was filled with bobbing brown orange balls.
Dipping oranges in the blessed water
With the main events completed the band, priests and the lucky retriever of the cross marched out of town.
The band heading away from the waterfront
The priests in their finest robes
The Bishop's crown
The very happy and proud young man who retrieved the cross
It was a great privilege and lots of fun to watch this impressive community event.

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